s any sophisticated steak hound will tell you, steak au poivre isn't steak-frites at all, and neither is entrecôte or steak béarnaise. Steak-frites is hanger steak cut in diagonal slices, with a pile of French fries and a liberal dou-

sing of red-wine sauce. to get a handle on this fine distinction, visit this newish midtown brasserie. For $19,50, you'll get a generous portion of hanger steak cut in tender, almost succulent strips, all burnt and peppery around the edges. This beef is covered with a rich red-wine-and-shallot reduction that seeps nicely into a sizable tangle of suitably crisp frites. Order it the way they do on the due du Montparnasse, as a restaurative measure, in the later portion of the evening, after a blowsy drink or two.